NOOK

PIZZA, PASTA, ANTIPASTI, AND CLASSIC ROCK

Before the doors of Nook in Kitsilano are unlocked for evening service, The Cars' "Just What I Needed" blasts out from the speakers inside. It brings back fond memories; my sisters and I used to dance to this album. I hope the staff is doing the same—and there is reason to believe they are.

At both the Olympic Village and Kitsilano locations of the casual-Italian restaurant, service is a blend of unaffected and exceptionally jovial. During dinner, classic rock lingers on the speakers—this is certainly a place that loves its vinyl—and there's a sense of cohesion between the FOH and kitchen staff. Frequently outfitted in KISS, Van Halen, or Fleetwood Mac t-shirts, servers and management rarely give off the sense that they're frazzled—even on incredibly high-volume nights.

This particular evening in Kitsilano, I spot a slender wooden bench under the alcove to wait on: it's 4:45 and pouring rain (they open at 5:00). The Kits location is the second from proprietors Nicole Welsh and Mike Jeffs. Nook first opened in the West End to consistently long lines trailing down Denman street in 2009. A decade of this sustained success led to Nook's second location on Yew street, followed by a third in Olympic Village.

*Antipasti platter: squash, brussels sprout, cauliflower, potato, and kale pumpkin seed salad.*

With three other guests now congregating outside, Chris Clarke unlocks the doors with the energy and rapport of someone who genuinely enjoys their job. The General Manager (or "main man"—they don't force titles) invites everyone to chose their own seating, so I snag a chair at the bar. I'm only here for a quick drink and to make a note of the interior design at this location (a project by Scott Posno). Extremely satisfied with the "greens" salad (chick peas, walnuts, onions, pecorino cheese) and champagne—and seeing a line build outside—I pay up and head back home.

Months earlier, Clarke showed me around the Olympic Village location—during an impromptu pop-in—and seemed excited by every detail. You want your staff to treat their workplace as if it was their own, and Clarke does just that. He has successfully carried the reputable geniality from Nook's West End location over to the formerly-bleak building on the corner of West 2nd Ave and Columbia St. and the charming, former jazz bar near Kits Beach. He works at both.

All three locations are striking. They glow a ruby hue with intervals of warm wood. Both rooms are modern-minimalist in design with heavy teak, white brick or subway tile, and large mirrors serving as a backdrop. Chairs are plush yet chic and the glassware is always spotless.

But this is no highbrow restaurant chain. The focus on pizza, pasta, and antipasti risks being redundant in a city with so much Italian, but it has clearly hit a note with patrons. When attempting to meet two friends at the Olympic Village Nook one rainy Friday evening, the lobby area was packed with a clutter of guests anxiously waiting for their parties to be added to the growing chalkboard list—Nook has no hostess here, so the FOH staff take down names. We decided to come back another evening, then walked down the street to Wild Tale which was nearly empty—a testament to how popular Nook has become in the area.

*Wood-fire oven toasts the sandwich halves and thin-crust pizzas*

Back at Olympic Village on a separate evening, I order the gnocchi and baby meatballs. After a taste, I begin to understand why the restaurants' lines are long and expansions are gaining headway (there's another in North Vancouver coming). The dish is rich and generous in portion. While not as fluffy as, say, the gnocchi at Pepinos, and a touch more oily, it does make sense that this version is a crowd-pleaser. You don't leave hungry. The kitchen doesn’t prioritize local produce in the same way other restaurants do; packaged Italian brands of tomatoes and pasta are brought in. Their pizzas are hand-spun and cooked in a wood-fired oven. I haven’t yet taken the chance to order one, but the trusted word is they’re thin-crusted with toasty air pockets and traditional toppings such as prosciutto, arugula, roast garlic, anchovies, and house-made sausage.

*Gnocchi with baby meatballs and parmesan*

Lunch on another occasion was much more jaw-dropping. The meatball sandwich with provolone cheese and arugula was a knock-out; the accompanying antipasti (various selections at around $5 each) were fresh and flavourful. The beverage list is brief and the dessert menu even more so. (Yes, panna cotta and tiramisu make the cut but have you ever had a Lemon Positano—their take on the lemon posset—or budino?) Beers are from local craft breweries and Nook's cocktails are well-balanced and straightforward. The bar doesn't stray into mixologist territory with obscure syrups, home-made bitters, or marshmallow flambé; here they serve drinks the Italian way. Think; negroni, spritz, and old-world red and white vino.

For genuine comfort, unassuming fare, entertaining service, a glowing room (and The Dandy Warhols), Nook is the place to be. It's not trying to be what it isn’t—and with a take-it-or-leave-it approach, they seem to be doing just fine.

NOOK Olympic Village:

195 West 2nd Ave, Vancouver, B.C.

NOOK Kitsilano:

1525 Yew Street, Vancouver, B.C.